Thursday, July 28, 2011

The Kids Are Alright!

Yesterday the eggs hatched. I have found that with the Mann Lake Queen Breeding Device, larvae are usually fed upon hatching, but sometimes neglected after a few hours, so I generally like to remove larvae after their initial feeding but before all the larvae have hatched. I am usually pretty darn lucky and this time was no exception.Neglected larvae are usually in small colonies or if there is incoming nectar shortage, so, in my opinion, the Mann Lake queen device works best with larger-than-nuc sized colonies during an artificial or real nectar flow.
 First three stages of honey bee egg hatching. (A) An egg, as it appears from oviposition until a few hours before hatching begins. (B and C) Early and late stage appearance of tracheal network and segmentation. (D) Release of fluid to digest eggshell, along dorsal midline (arrows)

Dorsal-ventral flexing of embryo from upright position to prone, where it assumes a C shape. The line of the tracheal network is along each side. Flexing occurs before, during, and/or after eggshell digestion

Final stages of egg hatching. (A) Peristalsis of the abdomen, anterior to posterior—this may continue during the whole hatching process from appearance of the tracheal network to complete removal of the eggshell. (B and C) Embryos with partial digestion of the eggshell. (D) Completely hatched larva
(Variation in Time of Egg Hatch by the Honey Bee, Apis mellifera (Hymenoptera: Apidae)
Annals of the Entomological Society of America 97(1):140-146. 2004
Anita M. Collins, USDA–ARS, Bee Research Laboratory, Beltsville, MD)

The larvae are in little plastic cups which I  then attach to just about anything that will mount easily on a cell bar frame.

This time, tapered corks. Corks work well since you can handle them easily, they’re cheap, and mount easily. They’re reusable and easily sterilized, but bees tend to chew them up. Mann Lake offers cell cup holders and mounts in plastic, they work also.

Next, I place the corks into a swarm box. The box is a modified Marburg Swarm Box.

The commercial one shown here has its funnel open. Two hours earlier Dennis and I collected young bees from one of his hives to stock the swarm box. The box is stocked with frames of pollen, nectar and water. You only want young bees preferably between 5 and 15 days old, since that is when their hypopharangeal glands are really knocking out the royal jelly. The swarm funnel keeps out drones and queens by forcing the bees through a queen excluder.You have to shake about 10 brood frames, not necessarily from the same hive. It is best to leave the queen in her box.

The technique is to give a light shake and let the older bees return to the hive. A good moderate shake and the young bees fall into the funnel. The very youngest bees, just emerged, really hang on tight, so that they get to return to the colony. The young bees in the funnel don’t know where they live and haven't been flying, so they head on in. Drones and virgin queens can’t pass through and can be brushed out, but there are tricks to avoid them even being on the frames.

A couple hours later, and the broodless, queenless, bees are jonesing for something to do and that’s when they get the corks with the freshly hatched larvae.  The young bees give the larvae good feed, getting them off to a good start using the Queenless Emergency Impulse. 24 hours later, the well fed larvae were transferred to cell finishing colonies.

One of my mods is a row of holes (covered with painters tape since it doesn’t stick to bee feet very well) into which can be placed the corks with the cups with the eggs, without losing bees in the process, by careful use of the tape. The box has 60 holes. I left it in a cool place overnight. There is a continual roar that comes from within. A sign that all is proceeding well. After two hours I peeked at each cork and discovered 55 were still being fed and a small rim of wax was being added.

And more about Marburg Swarm Boxes on the Dave Cushman site. 

Tuesday, July 26, 2011

Meet The Drones!

These guys are everywhere! Most of them come from Veronika’s daughters, so their genes are all from the WSU research program. I can’t remember whether Veronika predates the German Carniolan semen addition or not, I’ll have to check. Although there’s a lot of variation, they tend towards the dark…

Back to the queen in the cage. After 24 hours I checked for eggs and there were none! Great Vinagaroons! That’s all we need, a queen of refined tastes, doesn’t like our little plastic cups. But, after 48 hours, I saw an egg in every cup and let her out. She walked a quarter inch and…layed an egg! I like this queen. I’ve taken to calling her Antoinette since she’s got family out in Louisiana.

Today I checked to see if the eggs were hatching. I had started wondering whether I missed them on Friday, but no, I still have a day to go. I moved some very young brood directly across from the eggs and put more pollen supplement in sugar syrup on the top bars so the little princesses will have a nice breakfast.

CFC#1 in Pieces
Cell Finishing Colony #1, a truly monstrous colony that I have added 6 frames of about-to-emerge brood to over the last two weeks, decide to swarm during the warm weekend weather. Here’s what’s left.

I removed 5 frames of pollen and nectar for the swarm box and reorganized the colony for cell finishing again. I missed the swarm cells since the bees were so thick. Easier to see today. I put about-to-emerge brood in the bottom box with the heaviest stores on the sides. Next box up was eggs, open brood, younger capped brood and heaviest pollen frames left. Third box up had no brood and just lighter stores with the super on top of that.
Interestingly, the old queen is still in there so I think that means one of three things, which I’ll let any readers puzzle out. This box won’t be any good for a couple weeks, which is why I prepped Cell Finishing Colony #2 yesterday.
CFC#1 Minus 5 for Swarm Box

Cell Finishing Colony #2 is a three-box colony loaded with young bees that have emerged recently and has very little in the way of eggs and open brood. The queen, another of Veronika’s daughters, is now under an excluder in the bottom box with some dummy frames on the outside and the oldest capped brood, so she’ll soon have room to lay; but that brood won’t need feeding until after the queen cells are sealed. All the brood is in the second box along with the pollen combs. There’ll be too much open brood when the queen cells arrive so I will remove 3 frames and then add 2 frames of pollen with the frame of queen cells. Box three was moved above the two supers and contains open nectar only, so I expect they’ll be starting queen cells in box 2 which is what I want.
CFC#2 Box 2 (Another chilly day with rain and good tempered bees!)

 Check out our D and B Queen Farms website!

Thursday, July 21, 2011

Don't Cook The Queen!

We didn’t want to disturb the queen until she’d had a bit of time to get her broodnest going. So we waited until today, two weeks after she arrived.  Meanwhile the drone eggs laid in the drone colonies about the time she arrived are now capped pupae. These are the drones that will be meeting the young princesses a little later on, but I’ll introduce them later. Also that capped brood that was used to make up the nuc are now young bees. Bees 5 to 15 days old (after  emergence) are the best producers of royal jelly, so the queen is eating really well now and her young larva are well fed, not to mention that the size of the brood nest is larger and the foragers are bringing in food. Even the guard bees are getting a little attitude!

The method we’re going to use to raise the queen cells starts off with using a Jenter style plastic device   known as the Mann Lake Queen Rearing Device  made and sold by Mann Lake ltd. I like the Mann Lake company  , they have good prices, service, and company philosophy. I keep bugging them to donate a device and it’s support pieces to our local beekeeper’s association so I can teach a class on it’s use, but it hasn’t happened yet. If you’re going to teach a class, you should have at least two devices so you are sure the larvae are as young as possible when you show the students how small those little buggers really are! You aren’t exactly sure how long it will be before the queen starts laying so it is good to have a flexible schedule and that’s not easy for a class.

 The Broodnest should be as big as the bees can keep heated properly, so it will be tricky to insert the device without wrecking “central heating” and chilling the perimeter brood. If we were grafting it would be no trouble, but since it is a chance to showcase the Queen Rearing Device, and it works very well, and we have a plan there should be no trouble.

First, we installed a cheater heater. This is a little $2.79 lidded storage box from Home Depot. The box is filled with water and an aquarium heater (From Marine Depot )

The Eheim Jager heater is a bit pricey at $25, but quite dependable, accurate, and our girls deserve it! It comes with a holder that keeps it off the bottom of the water container. The cord sneaks under the rim of the lid just fine and the whole thing fits in box I use for top feeding. The box  was a little short so I set it on an inner cover which closed up the bottom. I set it for 83F (+/-2 degrees) The screen bottomed nuc sets on top and presto! Toasty hive.

The Queen Rearing Device is put in the hive a day before the queen is confined, in order to impart the proper odor to the device. I stick the device into a hole cut into a brood frame that is well used. (I use a torch heated hive tool to cut the hole) The bees usually fill the hole with drone brood the rest of the time.

The queen side of the device, level with the comb, is placed on the edge of the brood nest facing a patch of young, open brood.

The last thing to do is give the bees a little treat: pollen supplement with lots of sugar, mixed thin and left in long lines on the top bars of the broodnest. It was cold when I closed it up but I knew it would be shoulder to shoulder in a few minutes like pigs at a trough!

Wednesday, July 20, 2011

Let's Panic Later!

So the queen’s in her cage and I got to leave her alone for a few days before releasing her. I did a quick check to see if any queen cells were started and they were not .

Although Dennis and I are both doing this VSH project, it was agreed I would set up the VSH breeder queen colony and after closing up the colony I could see the wisdom of having the other guy do it! If anything goes wrong, there will be a lingering sense of guilt for the person who would be pointed out as the responsible party. I was able to imagine several scenarios not in our favor. Or should I say My favor. On the third day, I looked in and it seemed that even though she was alive she was not as perky as I expected, and since the bees weren’t hassling the cage, I let her out and closed the hive.

My imagination conjured up images of a weak queen falling off the comb and dying below. I could imagine only too well, how not enjoyable it would be to tell Dennis the unhappy news. Two days later I took a quick peek and found eggs in the comb. I saw the queen on an adjacent comb, thought “good enough” and closed everything up. Nothing is for certain in this Bee Business!

There is a concentrated outline of how easy it is to rear queens originally entitled...
It was written by Micheál Mac Giolla Coda of  the Galtee Bee Breeding Group in Ireland

Tuesday, July 19, 2011

Her Highness arrives!

July 7 was the day for the queen to arrive via UPS overnight delivery from Glenn Apiaries. In the morning I arose and moved the new nuc to its permanent location about 100 feet away from the mother colony. The day proved to be cold, dim, and moist, rather like being smothered by a grounded cloud. The queen box was put into the truck and shipped out about 8 in the morning. Had I known it would take until after 5 pm I would have picked it up at the distribution point myself.

Instead, I watched the old foragers jump ship and fly home. At the alarming rate of about one every 15 seconds, I wondered if there would be anybody left when I put the queen in. There were a couple frames of about to emerge brood, but even they need to have some warmth to be assured of getting out!  So one every 15 seconds is 4  per minute, 240 per hour…I figured about a pound a day at that rate so nothing to worry about, but things were going to look different than last night.

When UPS arrived I noticed the box was cold. They drive with the doors open no matter the temperature, it seems. I will definitely pick up the next shipment myself! Still, the old bees had left and the rest had established where the activity would be centered so it would be easy to place the new girl.
The queen and her attendants were alive and well in a flat-top, three-hole, Benton-style introduction cage. I prefer the concave top Benton, so I decided to use a push in cage instead. I put the queen on a business card and covered her with the cage, tacked it on with blue tape and headed out to the grafting yard.
I placed the cage over the center of where the bees would cluster, slipped out the card, pushed in the cage and that was that. When placing an introduction cage on about-to-emerge brood it’s ok to have some young bees emerge directly into the queen cage, but not too many, because it can get crowded fast! Emerging brood will be able to “cover” twice the area they emerged from. Bees were emerging while I found a place that was mostly empty, yet still in the middle.

Monday, July 18, 2011

The Day Before The Expensive Queen Arrives

The seventh day of the seventh month of the eleventh year. Sounds auspicious! That is the day the queen was scheduled to arrive and arrive she did. But not before I had the little nucleus colony prepared and waiting. Many days beforehand the support colonies had been chosen, inspected and carefully arranged and in the late afternoon of the day before she arrived, which was nice and sunny, I made up the nuc.

I had some nice combs picked out from previous visits, full of nectar and pollen, and I grabbed these first.  Then from a second colony I added frames of about to emerge brood and young bees. The colony was quite large with three deeps and a couple supers and loaded with nectar. I tried to shake bees into the box but it got quite messy with a shower of nectar covering everything. I tried to brush them off frames with a feather and that was somewhat effective, but still pretty sticky. I kept track of the queen so she wouldn’t be involved and the whole thing took much longer than I had hoped. Still, the bees were even tempered and getting fatter by the minute lapping up all that nectar. The only stings I received were ineffectual ones in my fingertips, hardly noticeable at the time, but a little numb the next morning.

Eventually I had a box with a lot of bees in it which I set beside the parent colony, greatly reduced entrance facing the opposite way.